Showing posts with label red. Show all posts
Showing posts with label red. Show all posts

Saturday, September 1, 2012

Hello Balenciaga, take me with you


This week I have a dress to share, which I made for myself. This in itself, is a revolution for me, and only happens if I absolutely have the motivation and fabrics available. And time of course. 

I was going to a ball last weekend, in the country. I tend to over-dress for these occasions because, well, I love dressing up. No chance should be wasted!

For this outfit I was inspired by Christobel Balenciaga. I went to the Grace Kelly show in Bendigo a few months ago and found my favourite items were Balenciaga's gowns from the early 1960's for the Princess of Monaco. They had a tighter, exquisite silhouette, than the New Look from the forties and fifties. With a high waisted silhouette to the floor in slim line skirts with the fullness at the waist, it's a slight tweak of the dominant 1950's poodle skirt that's been hashed over and over for the last 30 years in the name of "retro".

The cover of a new book about Balenciaga that I purchased from the Grace Kelly exhibit,
via BeaHiveBlog

Classic late 50's/early 60's line, with wasp waist and full hipline, but a more tapered skirt hem.
via ClosetMelbourne

Balenciaga original: High-waisted silhouette with full gathers at waist,
via Style.com

via CountessdeVintage, originally from theFrock.com
The Prince and Princess of Monaco, Grace in Balenciaga, via Tacchi e Polpette, shown in colour below.

Embroidered Balenciaga bolero, via Tacchi e Polpette

Designed for Grace Kelly by Balenciaga, via Tacchi e Polpette
This dress/ suit above was a knock-out for me. I love the blocked colours, the absolute mastery of tone and texture, the clean lines.


So, moving on, I found a beautiful silk organza at Rathdowne Remnants, embroidered, and ridiculously well priced. 

With 2.5m of this amazing stuff, I made a little tailored bolero jacket, and a long skirt along the lines of these above designs, but obviously not approaching any of that kind of elegance or excellence. We mortals can only try.

I put the jacket and skirt with a velvet corset that I cropped from a tiny op-shop dress, which has very amazing brass emboridery on the front. I wanted to get into the "layers of texture" trend thats coming out of Europe for A/W 2013, so the embroidered silk and brass details together were perfect. The revival of extremely beautiful, Baroque -style gold ornamentation, and layers of jacquards, embroidery and lace has really made me very excited this season. If I could have put more gold braid on this outfit I would, but propriety prevents me from doing so.


D&G A/W 2013, via International Business Times.

Dolce and Gabbana A/W 2013, via MYFDBlog

So here's my homage to Christobel's amazing elegance and foresight. 
Silk bolero and skirt, after Balenciaga. 

Embroidered silk organza bolero, detail.

My pretend Balenciaga bolero and skirt.


Saturday, July 7, 2012

Taking the Plunge in Autumn


The beautiful Brooke is our feature bride for this week, in her autumn-coloured wedding gown.

Brooke married her partner Andrew in early June near the Yarra Valley in a relaxed, modern ceremony and reception at a nearby (posh) pub.

Brooke came to me with ideas spanning bias-cut 1930’s long-line gowns, to lace and belted retro looks. She really liked the textural velvet/silk combination from the Deco period as well as perhaps a lace: texture was an important part of her vision. Brooke really wanted it to be tea-length (just above ankle), and have a long, flattering line that would allow her to dance, and eat, and party to her heart’s content.





As she was getting married in June, I was drawn to the warm golden/antique/apricot autumnal colour ways for Brooke, which also complimented her beautiful pale complexion and warm brunette hair. We  agreed that layers, and some kind of heavier fabric would be appropriate, necessary even for a June wedding in the hills.

I was also really getting into the silk/rayon velvet burn-out or Devore fabrics that seemed to pop up at the right at the end of summer this year. I found a couple of incredible options, including Renaissance-style gold and cream filagree patterns, cream-on-cream sworls of leaves, and my favourite, an Italian devore from Clegs that was a riot of amazing autumn tones and motifs.
Italian silk/rayon devore, from Clegs.
I presented this to Brooke as perhaps the most confronting, but also most exciting option, and she loved it. So that was put together with an elegant high-waisted dress in silk satin and georgette, with godets of the devore in hem of the skirt, to tie the design together and show some flashes of colour, for fun and dancing.

Wedding dress design for Brooke, © E.Stanistreet, 2012. All rights reserved.
The dress came together beautifully: The devore bodice was made in a princess line, that I extended into the sleeves to make the soft, layered shape Brooke wanted, and which also streamlined the design with fewer seams. I lined the bodice with a layer of georgette, then lining, to support the velvet without impacting on the beautiful transparency of the burn-out sections. This georgette sat a couple of centimetres below the velvet sleeve hems for extra dimension and textures.

Sleeve and bodice details

The skirt was made in panels of crepe-backed satin in “Antique”, or ivory. I inserted the velvet godets (triangles) into the ends of these panel seams, and over-layed the whole skirt in Antique georgette, cut in a circle and gathered at the back, to add volume and interest.

Gathered georgette at back, and button details.
Skirt detail, showing georgette over panelled under-skirt.

The design is centred with a satin band insert under the bust, and covered satin buttons down the centre back.
Autumn-coloured wedding dress with satin-covered buttons.

All together, it’s such a simple-looking design, but the use of non-traditional fabric ties in to both the season, and Brooke’s individuality: the autumnal tones were a perfect compliment to her blue eyes and colouring, generally.

I think it’s a lovely example of how the overall context of “a wedding”, and all the trappings, like flowers, hair and make-up, and setting, allow you to get away with significant departures from the traditional bridal look.  It happily maintained enough of the bridal elements through the ivory silks and button details, as well as all of Brooke’s other styling choices.

Brooke's flowers were arranged by a local florist, and she kept her hair and make-up simple, classic and elegant.
I find a lot of my clients are very cautious when first considering non-traditional colours and textures, but remember: no one will mistake you for someone else. You are always clearly going to look like “the Bride” because you’re the one making an entrance and saying those special words up the front of the crowd, even if you’re not wearing white.

























So here are some of the lovely shots from Brooke and Andrew’s big day, by Anna McCallum Photography
Thanks to them both for sharing their photos.


 


 



Special thanks to Brooke for being a great client, with an open mind and clear vision, it was delightful to make your dress!

Next week, wintery tailoring to warm you through the darkest months. 






Tuesday, November 29, 2011

Naturally... Natalie


So at last! I can share one of the many lovely weddings I've been a tiny part of this last spring.

The first bride this season to be wedded, is the gorgeous Natalie Staub. Nat married her fiance Andrew at the Boynton's Feathertop Winery in Porepunka, Victoria. Their wedding was a rustic relaxed affair and as you'll see from the photos, a very warm, family event.

Natalie came to me because she had seen photos in the window of my shop and felt some of the dresses had elements she wanted.

Her inspiration was fresh, modern and colourful: Strong, clean designs with modern details, but she also like the older silhouette with the wasp waist.


 



She loved coral, pink, watermelon, cream and wanted a dress that was really contemporary to suit her, and their spring, country wedding.

Nat also wanted a dress she could wear again. This is often a motivation for women who want a non-traditional gown for their wedding: they would like to get some extra value from what will probably be the most expensive garment they ever buy. Sometimes it works out, sometimes not. I like to suggest a few considerations:
1. Will this desire to re-use lead you to compromise the fabrics and design choices?
2. Will you be able to separate the association of your wedding day from the Dress? ie, will you actually want to wear it again, if it has become a very sentimental garment?

Neither of these considerations is difficult to overcome, but my feeling when I design for a bride, is that we aim for the best wedding dress possible and if you can wear it again, well, yay. And I think Nat will definitely get another wear out of this dress.

I did quite a lot of designing with this dress, because, really, there was so much scope for me: pretty much a blank slate, as far as wedding dresses go!

Preliminary Storyboard 1
© E. Christian

Preliminary storyboard 2
© E. Christian
There was a lot of chiffon and/or georgette, but ultimately we decided on a silk/cotton for the skirt, because it was a bit less cocktail-hour, and suited the bush setting more. I also found a beautiful printed silk dupion from one of my suppliers, designed by an Australian textile artist.

Final design concept, with layered watermelon
skirt and asymmetrical bodice
© E. Christian
We went with the two-toned design, though this seems to be very dramatic idea to some people, incredulously inquiring in the shop, that  surely "a bride shouldn't wear such colours?!"... what is this? 1906? 
Seriously. Open your mind.

Printed Silk Dupion from Silk Trader, with asymmetrical neckline, cap sleeve and
covered buttons
Silk/Cotton voile layered circle skirt in "Coral"




And here is the beautiful bride on her Wedding Day. I love how relaxed, modern, understated and genuine this wedding looks: everyone clearly had a fabulous time!















Thanks Nat, for being a wonderful client, and Nat and Andrew for sharing your photos and special with us. 
Photography by Shawn Smits.


Next time, more Spring weddings!